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Intellectual Property In Coffee: Who Really Owns The Story?

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Stop me if this sounds familiar.

“This coffee was grown in fertile soil, amid a lush landscape known for producing bright, fruity notes with a hint of chocolate. We believe in sustainability and transparency throughout the supply chain. Our team travels the world to responsibly source the best coffees, taste them, and carefully roast them for you. We partner with producers who practice traditional farming methods, but aren’t afraid to try new techniques.”

If you’ve read enough coffee roasters’ About pages and coffee descriptions, then all of this should sound familiar. This was not quoted from any one company; rather, it was a patchwork of keywords pulled from many companies’ websites.

Every coffee has a story, and anyone in marketing will tell you that stories sell. It’s even easier to sell when consumers recognize certain attributes without preemptive education, such as where the coffee was grown (place-based marketing) or any certification marks (e.g. Fair Trade). If I had told you the coffee was  Jamaican Blue Mountain or Kona, you’d likely have recognized the names and skipped the flavor notes. This is intellectual property (IP) at play.

This type of brand recognition is sometimes driven by a marketing campaign from the country’s government and other times, it’s a result of consumers associating certain characteristics with quality.

There is a wide range of how IP affects producers. It runs the gamut of creating a geographic indication (GI) for a specific region, developing a new variety and protecting it with plant breeders’ rights, and using certification trademarks like Rainforest Alliance. Much like the previous angle examinations of IP in this series, enforcement and laws vary by country.

Enveritas is a non-profit organization with a mission to create a sustainability verification platform for all coffee farmers through data and field assessments. COO and co-founder Carl Cervone echoes what we’ve all heard, that what makes a coffee interesting is the story behind it. Unfortunately, it’s a story often told by the buyer, and it can create a tricky loop. “On one hand, you want to bring the story to the public,” he says. But the story drives recognition and other importers become interested. “But on the other, it’s more difficult to buy it again the next year once you’ve created the buzz.”

Geographic indications (GIs) are one way for producers to collectively pursue IP protection. GIs give producers control over their story, which can be important in an industry that markets their faces and cultural assets without recognizing their original owners. Usually created for indigenous or historical products with distinctive flavor profiles—like Parmesan cheese—successful GI programs require robust organizational and institutional structures. Each country varies in its GI approach with some being government-funded and others producer-run.

Marshall Fuss, a California attorney specializing in the coffee industry, says that GI programs would be a great protection option for regional coffee producers. “The problem is that in so many regions, the farmers are poorer than winegrowers and winemakers, they are even poorer than cheesemakers,” says Fuss. “So it’s been very difficult for them. Personally, I’d be delighted to see them pursue geographical indication protection.”

One research study on IPR’s value in the coffee industry by Daphne Zografos Johnson of the World Intellectual Property Organization observed that consumer purchasing habits can influence a decision to pursue GIs programs and ethical certifications. Johnson wrote, “These emerging tendencies offer producers opportunities to pursue strategies independent of commodity pricing at the exchanges, and to capture value by asking for higher prices for better quality coffee, and more sustainable cultivation and trade practices.”

To examine this further, we can take a look at Indonesia, where the first GI was domestically registered in December 2008. The pilot project of Kintamani Bali Arabica coffee began in 2002 and led the way for the 13 coffee GIs now registered in the country. One 2009 study (PDF), published by Surip Mawardi from the Indonesian Coffee and Cocoa Research Institute, examined the region’s success by looking at the farmgate price.  These prices paid to producers on the farm, excluding any export or transport fees, increased from US$0.80 per kilogram in 2002 to US$3.30 per kilogram in 2008. In addition, infrastructure and the local economy improved.

In a research article published in the Journal of Rural Studies a few months ago on this topic, Dr. Jeffrey Neilson and team argue that producers in Indonesia are not seeing the value of GIs reflected back to them. They wrote, “As a largely technocratic intervention, imported from Europe and implemented as an elite driven project, the GIs are yet to deliver economic benefits to coffee producers in Indonesia.”

So if producers aren’t earning more, then who does GI really benefit?

I posed a question about the Gayo, Indonesia GI program’s success and producer benefits to Hadiyan Ibrahim, General Secretary of Yayasan Masyarakat Perlindungan Kopi Gayo (Gayo Coffee Protection Society Foundation). Ibrahim said that while the quality has improved, the price has only remained more stable with no changes. The most direct benefit to producers has been “the traceability protection to make sure the originality of coffee.”

Indonesia is certainly not a case study for the world, and its GI programs’ successes vary even by region. But one item that GIs protect is the immeasurable sense of ownership and nationalist pride in their work. As Neilson writes, the producing countries’ interests “need to politically engage with the moral legitimacy of roasters and cafe owners to use place names and cultural property without acknowledging producer claims of ownership.” In other words, if roasters truly believe in contributing to a sustainable coffee chain, there’s certainly more work that can be done in telling the right story with the right words.

And while some countries like Indonesia and Vietnam go with a top-down geographic indication approach, other countries prefer something more decentralized. Trademarking a name of a farm or region may prove to be more useful.

Because GIs require characteristics within the region to be similar and that much of the coffee is produced on smallholder farms, Ethiopia opted for trademarking the region names themselves. This strategy received opposition from the National Coffee Association and Starbucks in 2006, contending that the country’s trademark application should be rejected based on how common the region names had become. Starbucks later caved to public pressure.

One study by Heran Sereke-Brhan, published in Boston University Frederick S. Pardee Center for the Study of the Longer-Range Future, looked at Ethiopia’s strategy and concluded that it was a success. Sereke-Brhan noted that trademarks like Sidamo, Harar/Harrar, and Yirgacheffe were registered in 30 countries, and over 80 countries had committed to being licensed distributors. The researchers extrapolated the success, predicting it would set a precedence for African cultural goods. They wrote, “Even beyond coffee, the general premise holds that African countries have the capacity to generate intellectual property assets that can then be harnessed to meet development needs.” When the producers and creative makers have control over their “story,” it’s when IP “favorably shifts the position… to capture an increased portion of retail price for their goods.”

Another IP consideration that directly affects farmers is the development of new plant varieties. “Creating a new coffee variety using traditional methods takes 30 years,” says Hanna Neuschwander, Communications Director of World Coffee Research (WCR). Combined with issues like climate change, diseases like rust, and subsequent labor problems, the work can’t stop. She says, “You have to be doing that work continuously, you can’t wait until the crisis hits to start doing it.” Breeders’ rights give the creator control over how the variety is distributed, but they also require you to make it available for other breeders to use for research.

One of the goals of World Coffee Research is to collaboratively work with countries on variety development. In a search for new coffee varieties filed in the International Union for the Protection of New Varieties of Plants (UPOV) database, Neuschwander found only 36 for plant breeders’ rights.

One of the barriers to variety development is that there is no professionalized seed sector for coffee, says Neuschwander. A seed sector, or formalized industry, will give you assurance that the seed you purchased is the correct one and support the cycle of research that is needed to produce the seed. The sector would also work to market their seeds to the farmers that will purchase them. At the end of the day, it doesn’t matter if you have a great variety if farmers don’t have access to it.

There is also currently no protection for seed quality, which can negatively affect farmers. Imagine being told you have a rust-resistant variety and later finding out that that was false. WCR often receives requests for help in identifying varieties. “At least half the time it’s not what they think it is because they just got it from a neighbor or they bought the land and someone told them that’s what it was,” she says. One resource that may become helpful is the World Coffee Research-produced  Variety Catalog, filled with breeder information, agronomics data, and photos.

When asked about what he thought would be the biggest impact of sustaining the industry at the farm level, Enveritas’ Cervone noted that it came down to understanding what’s unique about a place or processing method. “To go beyond large estates, it’ll require a lot of cooperation among farmers,” he says. “It also comes down to producers listening closely to the market to recognize what is unique and what is valuable.”

Neuschwander was more stark, emphasizing a need to invest in farmers and research. She says, “Sometimes people either forget or not have full clarity on the fact that coffee is agriculture and farmers have to have the tools, resources, and knowledge that they need to support the work that they do.”

When we’re far removed from the source, we don’t think about things like plant breeders’ rights or geographic indications. Naming the region is something everyone does. But if you’re using a story to sell your coffee without acknowledging any rights of farmers, are you really supporting the coffee value chain or are you just participating in a colonialist structure?

Intellectual property is varied and complicated. Cafe designs, logos, and concepts are easily duplicated across international borders, often leaving the original creator helpless to pursue. Social media access has only fueled faster copycat manufacturers. For producers, their stories and customs are often retold into bite-sized, glorified material. And for those who have the power and resources, our job in the industry is to recognize who owns the story rights and reallocate some of that power to them. We can surely refocus some of our energy from developing another brewer to truly sustaining the industry for the next generation.

Jenn Chen (@TheJennChen) is a San Francisco–based coffee marketer, writer, and photographer. Read more Jenn Chen on Sprudge.

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Source: Coffee News

San Francisco: Watch The Women In Coffee Panel At Fellow

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On Saturday, March 24th the new Fellow showroom on Valencia in San Francisco played host to a Women In Coffee panel, featuring prominent female coffee professionals from around the Bay Area. The discussion was led by Alicia Adams (Director of Coffee of Red Bay Coffee Roasters) and featured business owners Eileen Rinaldi (founder and CEO of Ritual Coffee Roasters), Helen Russell (co-founder and CEO of Equator Coffees & Teas), Trish Rothgeb (co-founder, co-CEO, and Director of Coffee at Wrecking Ball Coffee Roasters), and Rachel Konte (Chief of Design at Red Bay Coffee Roasters).

“Here at Fellow we pick themes for the store every month,” explained manager Jessica Caisse. “In honor of International Women’s Day we decided March would be ‘Boss Ladies Month’ during which we would highlight and celebrate women in the coffee industry. We featured women-owned and operated roasters, promoted women producers, and planned a ‘Women in Coffee’ mixer like we’ve enjoyed at other businesses in the past, where ladies in the industry have a fun night to connect over food and drinks.”

Caisse teamed up with Akaash Saini of Equator Coffees and Teas who’d been developing this program and needed a venue. “It couldn’t have been more perfect timing,” Caisse told Sprudge.

Before the panel kicked off, around forty-five guests mingled in the expansive showroom, with food provided by Dripline of Oakland, CA. “The owner and head chef, Nora Dunning, is getting a lot of local exposure,” says Caisse, “She was one of the head pastry people at Farley’s and Blue Bottle. Dripline is now becoming one of the hot spots in Oakland.” Dripline’s food draws from South East Asian flavors and contemporary California cuisine—think a cardamom-spiced muffin dusted with Equator Coffees’ Tigerwalk espresso blend.

Drinks were provided by women-owned Inconnu Wine and beer by women-owned Good Food Award winning brewery Sufferfest.

Alicia Adams moderated the panel and touched on issues like diversity, sexual harassment, challenges of being a woman in coffee, and dismantling outdated systems. “I was honored and inspired to be moderating a panel of women with so much experience in the coffee industry,” Adams tells Sprudge. “A lot of them have paved the way for women in the coffee industry, and to hear their thoughts and advice on the more serious topics like sexual harassment and gender inequity while still keeping the conversation positive and uplifting is exactly what we need more of.”

Alicia Adams, Trish Rothgeb, and Helen Russell.

“[Adams] asked great questions that pushed us toward some illuminating realizations. I learned so much from the other panelists, as well as Alicia,” Trish Rothgeb told us.

“It’s always an honor to represent Women of Color in the Coffee industry,” says Rachel Konte. “We are unicorns, but that is not holding us back. We need to be seen so others can follow.”

“It was wonderful to look out at the audience and see more than one kind of person represented,” Rothgeb continued. “A panel made up of women talking about the coffee lives of women can draw a diverse crowd! This is amazing to see.”

The panel lasted a little over an hour and included topics that panelists had different takes on. Some championed transparency in wages while others were more cautious. “Compensation is a complex topic and it was interesting to hear how we all manage transparency at different stages of growth,” said Helen Russell.

“Rachel, Helen, Trish, Eileen, and Alicia were a wonderful team to lead a discussion like this, and the response I’ve had from guests has been overwhelmingly positive,” said Caisse. “Communities coming together in this way on a regular basis is so important to the health and vibrance of our industry, and I’m honored Fellow could be a part of it.”

Watch the complete video below:

Sprudge is proudly partnered with this Women In Coffee event. Special thanks to Fellow and Equator Coffees, and to all the panelists, our host Alicia Adams, and attendees.

Zachary Carlsen is a co-founder at Sprudge Media Network. Read more Zachary Carlsen on Sprudge.

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Source: Coffee News

Friday: Philadelphia’s ReAnimator Coffee Is Throwing Down For The ACLU

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You know how every time you go see a Marvel movie you have to stay until the post-credits scene so you can see what the next Marvel movie will be? Well this is kind of like that, but for charity. Philadelphia’s ReAnimator Coffee, presumably still drunk off the stupid Eagles winning the Super Bowl, must have slept through the March 16th Night of 1,000 Pours event Sprudge facilitated nationwide, so they’re throwing a NoTP (No1P? NoKP?) addendum event this Friday, April 6th.

Starting at 7:30pm at their 310 Master St location, ReAnimator will be hosting a combination latte art throwdown and Cup Tasters competition with all the proceeds from the $10 entry fee going to the Pennsylvania chapter of the American Civil Liberties Union. But don’t worry, L’Artists, thanks to donations from sponsors Acaia, Baratza, La MarzoccoRes Ipsa, Stock, and others, there will be prizes aplenty for pourers who can execute the highest beauty to milk ratio.

So stick around until Friday at 7:30pm; the credits are almost over and ReAnimator is screening the post credits scene. With any luck, Samuel L. Jackson will make an appearance.

Disclaimer: Samuel L. Jackson will not be making an appearance, but you should still go to support the ACLU of Pennsylvania.

Zac Cadwalader is the news editor at Sprudge Media Network and a staff writer based in Dallas. Read more Zac Cadwalader on Sprudge.

*all images via ReAnimator Coffee

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Source: Coffee News

Vito Sportelli & Andrea Peconio Are Your Amsterdam Coffee Mixologist Champs

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amsterdam coffee festival netherlands coffee mixologists

amsterdam coffee festival netherlands coffee mixologists

Coffee cocktail-making virtuosi Vito Sportelli and Andrea Peconio have been crowned champions at the 2018’s Coffee Mixologists tournament at Amsterdam Coffee Festival. The Italians battled seven other teams of two, across four rounds, over the three days of last month’s festival in Holland. Sponsored by Tia Maria, Sanremo, and Daarnhouwer in its second year, Coffee Mixologists is fast emerging as a major new competitive coffee event, and carries with it a sizable cash prize. 

amsterdam coffee festival netherlands coffee mixologists

While 2017’s winners were a Dutch barista and bartender duo who proved to be deft partners in drink-making (and as of January, baby-making), this year’s title and €1,000 prize went to close-knit colleagues. Both are trainers at Barproject, a beverage events and consulting company in Bari, the seaport city located where, if Italy’s boot were imagined cowboy-style, the spur would jut. A 39 year old from Conversano, Sportelli also runs his own cocktail catering company, Aperinfresco, and 28-year-old Peconio moonlights as head bartender at Kabuki, a club, bar, and restaurant in his hometown of Bari.

Sportelli and Peconio’s signature drink, called the Terrone, combined two coffees from Italian specialty roaster Edo Quarta—a natural Colombian Quindio Villa Roa and a washed Kenyan Karindundo Nyery—with booze aplenty. An ibrik warmed up the spirits before smoking them and incorporating angostura bitters, thyme, and cascara.

amsterdam coffee festival netherlands coffee mixologists

For the second year of the tournament, returning judges included Anne Lunell, co-founder of Swedish roaster Koppi, and Hani Asfdaai, acclaimed bartender and owner of Noah in Rotterdam. New to adjudication this year was 2017 London Coffee Masters champion James Wise, and serving as the affable and enthusiastic MC was Dave Jameson, a twice-crowned UK Coffee in Good Spirits champion and coffee program manager at Bewley’s UK.

“I was really impressed with Vito and Andrea from their first performance,” Jameson shared with Sprudge. “They didn’t make a bad drink all weekend, and the drink they prepared in the final was just sublime! Very deserving winners and I look forward to seeing them performing again soon.”

amsterdam coffee festival netherlands coffee mixologists

Dave Jameson of Bewley’s UK (center).

amsterdam coffee festival netherlands coffee mixologists

Judges James Wise (center) and Anne Lunell (right).

Before heading to the London Coffee Festival—to hold mixology and coffee training sessions as part of the Cimbali Sensory SeriesSportelli and Peconio answered some questions for Sprudge about the contest and their careers.

The interview has been lightly edited for clarity.

How did you get involved in coffee and cocktails?

Vito Sportelli: Studying and experimenting with basic products as part of being a professional Italian barista, and having the products always present in the bar where we usually work.

Andrea Peconio: My passion led me to get experience working with alcohol. That then led to experience with coffee preparation and eventually how to mix them together.

Why did you decide to enter the Coffee Mixologists competition?

VS: It was a challenge—to get out of our comfort zone and have us confront professionals beyond our own country.

AP: To set ourselves outside our home environment and see what it would be like to put that kind of pressure on ourselves.

amsterdam coffee festival netherlands coffee mixologists

Photo courtesy of Dave Jameson.

Do you consider one of yourselves more of a barista and the other a bartender, or do you both feel equally comfortable with coffee and cocktails?

VS: Thanks to all the work we have done in recent years, we are quite complementary in both disciplines.

AP: We are both bartenders though, above all, work well together as a close-knit team.

In the first round, The Signature Drink, you prepared the Terrone, which include Bols Genever 1575 and Imea Gineprina d’Olanda 1897. Did making this drink for a competition in Amsterdam influence the decision to use traditional Dutch alcohol?

VS: Absolutely. We like to create drinks that are not just perfectly balanced, but that also have cultural content. We were thinking about how to create a union between our land and the Amsterdam Coffee Festival.

AP: Terrone is the result of the Barproject crew’s teamwork. However, Dutch products were chosen to honor Dutch culture.

amsterdam coffee festival netherlands coffee mixologists

Photo courtesy of Dave Jameson.

How was working with the secret ingredients in The Mystery round?

VS: Stimulating and fun.

AP: And to succeed in these rounds, we focused on really evaluating the characteristics of the single-origin coffee that we had to use.

What was the hardest part about the competition?

VS: During the semi-final [in the Redefining the Classic round], the competition required us to reinterpret a Black Russian. The greatest effort was reinventing it without being banal. We revised it tiki-style, keeping the characteristics of the drink when in contact with the lips and letting it evolve during the drinking process so it could still carry exotic notes.

While Italy leads in the world in terms of coffee technology, your country’s specialty coffee roasting and cafe scene is still emerging. Do you see yourselves as ambassadors for contemporary Italian coffee or cocktails?

VS: We believe that a barista in Italy must necessarily know all the materials that he deals with during his work, and we work every day applying this philosophy—above all, during our shifts behind the bar.

We have been working with specialty products for six years now, incorporating them in our consumer education and catering, all while respecting the concept of made-in-Italy as well as new world trends.

amsterdam coffee festival netherlands coffee mixologists

This event includes a €1000 cash prize. Photo courtesy of Dave Jameson.

Is there something specifically Italian that you brought to this competition?

VS: Probably the all-Italian ability to communicate and excite.

What’s in store for the future?

VS: I hope to be able to continue traveling, to explore how to experiment, and maybe thanks to this victory, to have new job opportunities abroad.

AP: I would like to open a club of my own and continue to grow my professional skills.

Karina Hof is a Sprudge staff writer based in Amsterdam. Read more Karina Hof on Sprudge

Photos courtesy of the Amsterdam Coffee Festival unless otherwise noted.

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Source: Coffee News