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The Coffeehouse Resistance: A Story Love, Coffee, And The American Dream

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I love coffee books. How to brew it, how to pour it real pretty, everything someone knows about it, new rules for it: if words are committed to paper about coffee, I’m into it. It should come as no shock then that Sarina Prabasi’s new book The Coffeehouse Resistance: Brewing Hope in Desperate Times, released today, April 9th piqued my interest. Published by Green Writers Press, The Coffeehouse Resistance is a book about “love, coffee, and the American dream.”

Described as “part coming-to-America story, part lyrical memoir and another part activist’s call to action,” The Coffeehouse Resistance tells Prabasi’s story, from Nepal to Addis Ababa, Ethiopia before finally immigrating New York City, where along with her husband she started the Bronx’s Buunni Coffee. Were that the sum total of the book, it would be a wonderful read, the story of new Americans finding a home and success thanks in some part to coffee. But as it did with many things, the 2016 presidential election shifted the narrative.

In a time where nationalism was spiking and moving into the mainstream, Prabasi and her family were left to question their place in their new home. Would they be accepted under this new regime? But instead of sitting back and waiting their fates to befall them, the proprietors of Buunni used their cafe to enact change by harkening back to one of the original roles of the coffeehouse: as “a hub for local organizing and action.” Per the website, the new narrative is one of “moving from despair to hope… about building community, claiming home, and fighting for our shared dreams.”

To promote her new work, Prabasi will be hitting the road for readings and book signings all across the country, including Expo this week in Boston. Other events throughout the month includes stops in Denver, Seattle, New York, and Portland, where you will be able to pick up a copy of your very own. Or, if you happen to not live in one of these five cities, The Coffeehouse Resistance: Brewing Hope in Desperate Times is available for purchase online and in retail stores like Barnes & Noble and Target. For more information on the book or the tour dates, visit Sarina Prabasi’s official website.

Zac Cadwalader is the managing editor at Sprudge Media Network and a staff writer based in Dallas. Read more Zac Cadwalader on Sprudge.

Top image via The Coffeehouse Resistance: Brewing Hope in Desperate Times

The post The Coffeehouse Resistance: A Story Love, Coffee, And The American Dream appeared first on Sprudge.

Source: Coffee News

Using Fermentation To Take Coffee To New Heights At Sítio Santa Rita In Brazil

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sitio santa rita brazil coffee farm

sitio santa rita brazil coffee farm

The first time I heard Jhone Milanez Lacerda, a coffee farmer from the Caparaó region of Brazil, speak about all he has done to transform his family’s farm, I was flooded with emotion. I had never before seen a young farmer so humble and kind, and yet so smart, inventive, and articulate. From that first day, I could tell Lacerda had big plans—today, I am thrilled to share a little bit of his story here.

Sítio Santa Rita, in the Caparaó region—a national park in a rocky area between the states of Minas Gerais and Espírito Santo in Brazil—was founded in 1896. The Lacerda family is the fourth generation of coffee farmers in that farm area, and the first producing high-quality coffee.

Jhone Lacerda remembers the day his father, Tarcisio Lacerda, brought home a little can of coffee that smelled and tasted nothing like he had recognized as coffee to that point in his life. It was fantastic, and it was life-changing. He asked his father why this coffee tasted like that, and the elder Lacerda couldn’t answer his son’s question. So in 2008, Jhone Lacerda started taking courses on coffee grading and tasting and coffee farm management.

sitio santa rita brazil coffee farm

Jhone and Tarcisio Lacerda

“Between 2006 and 2010, we understood that good coffee was pulped cherry coffee,” says Lacerda. “It made sense at that time, as nobody was doing selective picking, and the simplest way to separate the greens out of the ripe cherries was to do so via pulped processing,” Lacerda says. He started selectively picking a very small part of his crop and selling it at very low prices. His neighbor farmers would stop by and call him crazy, since the middlemen, being either naïve or just plain cruel, would only pay “improved commodity” prices for it—something like USD $8-10 above market price.

In 2012, Lacerda became certified as a Q-grader and created a tasting lab on his farm so he could host his green coffee clients. Around the same time, Miriam and Fred Ayres, Lacerda’s sister and brother-in-law, started specializing in barista courses and transformed the space in a coffee shop.

Then, in 2013, at Brazil’s International Coffee Week, Lacerda attended a talk by Manuel Diaz on coffee fermentation. “Until this point in time, my dad, my granddad, and every other farmer would instruct us to avoid fermentation at all costs. This guy told me to do the exact opposite: in order to be good, coffee has to ferment. That was mindblowing to me,” remembers Lacerda. The next morning, Dr. Diaz presented some fermented coffees at the cupping table and Lacerda can still describe them as if he’d tasted them yesterday: very fruity, citric, complex coffees.

sitio santa rita brazil coffee farm

sitio santa rita brazil coffee farm

Sítio Santa Rita

Back on the farm, Lacerda had cupped a spectacular coffee from a neighbor whose coffee had been disqualified from a quality contest because of the humidity content. “When I asked my neighbor what was the secret of that coffee, he got shy and did not want to share. I insisted, so he ended up confessing: he was picking the beans every day, storing them inside fertilizer plastic bags during the entire week, and on the weekends he would remove the coffee from the bags and lay them out in the sun to dry. There was my second confirmation that fermentation was the way to go.”

Lacerda started testing. “There were so many tests,” he recalls. “Many people would say it was too fruity, the old school folks would say it has gone bad or something like that. Eventually, I started getting it right. The coffee tasted so good, I started varying the fermentation by time. Eventually, I realized that time was not the most important variable, but temperature was. If I fermented a coffee in May for 72 hours, it wasn’t going to taste the same as a coffee fermented in August for the same amount of time, since the average temperature in those months differs widely.”

By 2014, Lacerda and his clients were able to find so many different fruit notes in his fermented coffee they nicknamed the coffee lots “Fruit Salad,” so the buyers would know what to expect. Other lots followed suit: Brazil Nuts, Sweet Caparaó, Jasmine, Coconut Candy, and so forth.

The Bala de Côco (Coconut candy) lot comes from coffee trees located in a very steep area at the top of Pedra Menina rock, very hard to access, surrounded by eucalyptus trees. One day Lacerda was riding his bike up there and noticed the coffee trees had beautiful flowers and decided to proceed with the harvest. The coffee turned out to have candied coconut notes. It comes through a biannual crop only since it is completely shaded. It’s one of his most sought after—and expensive—lots.

sitio santa rita brazil coffee farm

Last year, Lacerda invested in a more elaborate fermentation process, which resulted in a coffee with black olive notes, nicknamed “Olivia.” “Olivia went through a dry, pre-fermentation stage, then on to a dry, pulped fermentation, and lastly, a hydrated fermentation. I tried to unite three processes that we already do into one, and it created something very unique, with notes of black olives. From our trial and experience, we can tell the pre-fermentation adds flavor complexity, the second fermentation adds sweetness, and third fermentation contributes to a clean flavor and acidity,” summarizes Lacerda. Due to climate change, photoperiod, rain season variations, etc, it was not possible to reproduce the olive notes in this year’s same experiment. “I can only control my experimentation tests and harvest and post-harvest techniques, but I can’t control nature,” he jokes.

Lacerda, a Coffee Management graduate, is also a tinkerer. With his father, he developed a unique drying device for his microlots, which allows them to dry up to nine microlots at the same time. He’s also developed, with partner Wesley Coelho, a remote temperature measuring system that allows him to control his fermentation lots from anywhere. The system sends a reminder to Lacerda’s smartphone when the coffee mass reaches preset target temperatures, so that Lacerda can move forward with the post-harvest process. They are working to make it available for sale to other farmers as well. As a pioneer in coffee fermentation in Brazil, Lacerda has traveled to Costa Rica and Colombia to implement processes similar to those of the “Fruit Salad” lot in farms in those countries.

sitio santa rita brazil coffee farm

Fred and Miriam Bruno

“None of this would have been accomplished had the tasks not been divided between my family and me,” recognizes Lacerda. “While I’m in charge of quality and commercialization of our coffees, Fred and Miriam are in charge of the coffee shop and the roastery, my dad the plantation, and Miriam takes an additional role in financing and administration. Without them, I wouldn’t have had so much time to focus on researching better practices of fermentation and quality improvement.”

Farming is no easy task. Lacerda is surely very lucky to have such a dedicated family team behind Sítio Santa Rita, but also deserves much credit and recognition for being an inventive and fearless trailblazer in the mountains of Caparaó.

Juliana Ganan is a Brazilian coffee professional and journalist. Read more Juliana Ganan on Sprudge.

Photos by Bruno Lavorato.

The post Using Fermentation To Take Coffee To New Heights At Sítio Santa Rita In Brazil appeared first on Sprudge.

Source: Coffee News

The Inaugural Sprudge Twenty Class Of 2019

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Hello! Welcome to the official announcement of The Sprudge Twenty, presented by Sprudge and Pacific Barista Series.

This is a new program for us here at Sprudge, happening today for the very first time. What you’re reading will become an annual tradition honoring and amplifying leaders in the global coffee community, as part of an ongoing partnership with Pacific Barista Series. Pacific is dedicated to championing leadership and excellence in the coffee industry, and to supporting coffee culture as it happens worldwide.

Barista Series

We’re thrilled to announce this year’s inaugural Sprudge Twenty class. Twenty people who are changing the game in coffee, whose work challenges and excites us, from every step of the coffee value chain. It includes entrepreneurs and coffee producers (they’re often one and the same!), working baristas and cafe owners, career professionals and those whose careers are just starting, competition success stories and folks working quietly behind the scenes, leading by example.

From a massive list of nominees around the world, below please find the inaugural Sprudge Twenty class presented by Pacific Barista Series. Each one of these members will receive a spotlight feature in the coming weeks on Sprudge, so get ready to know them a little better. For now, read on to discover the Sprudge Twenty presented alphabetically, and thank you.

Want to nominate someone in your community for the next Sprudge Twenty class? The nomination schedule for the 2020 Sprudge Twenty presented by Pacific Barista Series will be announced this fall. Sign up for the Sprudge Newsletter and never miss an update. 

Nicole Battefeld – Röststätte of Berlin, Germany

Nicole Battefeld — Röststätte of Berlin, Germany

Nominated by Melanie Boehme

Nicole Battefeld is the head roaster and barista team leader at Berlin’s Röststätte. A former professional chef, Battefeld is the 2018 German Barista Champion and the founder of the Female Barista Society, “a project to encourage women by sharing knowledge and passion for coffee.” The Society is currently raising funds to offer free education, technical training and other opportunities to womxn and female-identified coffee professionals in Germany and beyond.

Jenny Bonchak – Slingshot Coffee Co. of Raleigh, NC

Jenny Bonchak (Photo courtesy Jenny Bonchak)

Nominated by Emily Davis

Jenny Bonchak is the founder of Slingshot Coffee, a boutique ready-to-drink coffee company based in Raleigh, North Carolina. An accomplished specialty coffee entrepreneur, Bonchak built her brand from scratch in 2012, starting out hand-packing and brewing every batch herself from inside a shared kitchen. Today Slingshot is distributed nationally through major grocery brands like Whole Foods, Publix and Target; Bonchak has been named as a Fellow for the 2018 Class of Coca-Cola’s Founders Forum and as Southern Living’s 2016 Entrepreneur of the Year. She manages the brand and oversees the project alongside her partner, Jonathan Bonchak, and together the couple has finaled at multiple national United States Brewers Cup events over the last decade.

Daniel Brown – Gilly Brew Bar of Stone Mountain, GA

Daniel Brown (Photo by Mary-Claire Stewart)

Nominated by Justin Brostek and Juanita Brown.

Daniel Brown is the founder of Gilly Brew Bar, a successful and important new coffee company based in the Stone Mountain suburb of Atlanta. Housed inside a historic 19th century home known as “The Mayor’s House”, purchased in 2015 by Brown and his wife, Shellane Brown, Gilly pushes quality and innovation across an ever-changing range of premium coffee “elixirs” featuring dried herbs, bitters, and aromatics. Brown was nominated by multiple people for The Sprudge Twenty, and in one nomination essay is described as “one of the most innovative, creative, savvy interpreters of the coffee experience I have ever encountered.”

Click here to learn more about Gilly Brew Bar from their official website.

Nora Burkey – The Chain Collaborative of Queens, NY

Nora Burkey (Photo courtesy Nora Burkey)

Nominated by Benjamin Myers

Nora Burkey is the Executive Director and Founder of The Chain Collaborative, an international organization dedicated to “investing in the capacity of Change Leaders in coffee growing regions and accompany them as they drive grassroots, sustainable development in their own communities.” Through Chain Collaborative, Burkey and her team have helped develop projects with coffee producers in Ecuador, Nicaragua, Uganda, and other coffee growing regions around the world. They also collaborate with the Coffee Quality Institute (CQI) for The Partnership for Gender Equity, an ongoing research initiative looking at the intersection between coffee and gender for coffee producers worldwide.

Gisele Coutinho – Pura Caffeina of São Paulo, Brazil

Gisele Coutinho (Photo by Tony Chen)

Nominated by Sabine Parrish

Gisele Coutinho is an entrepreneur and coffee educator based in São Paulo, Brazil. She’s the founder of Pura Caffeina, a subscription service offering coffee delivery by bicycle within the city, or by mail nationwide. She’s recently launched the Casa Pura Caffeina, an education space providing access and resources for the São Paulo coffee community. Sabine Parrish offers this depiction from her nominating letter:

“Gisele was the first in her family to go to university, majoring in journalism with an emphasis on scientific communication. This training has served her well—I’ve been lucky enough to take two of Gisele’s courses, and she has an amazing knack for making the many complexities of coffee something even novices can begin to approach without fear. Even though I no longer live in Brazil, I still look forward to my weekly email showcasing the available coffees—the newsletter is always delightfully written and filled with moments of joy.”

Felix Felix – Dune Coffee Roasters of Santa Barbara, CA

Felix Felix

Felix Felix (Photo by Chach Hernandez)

Nominated by Kay Cheon

Felix Felix is a working coffee professional and competition barista living in Santa Barbara, California, where he works as a Cafe Manager for Dune Coffee Roasters. Felix is one of several nominees who was highlighted for their exemplary customer service, and for approaching coffee work with a level of care and consideration on par with fine dining. From Kay Cheon’s nominating essay:

“As one of our store managers, Felix sets an example for service and work ethic to all of our employees, and is always looking to improve his skills as a manager and barista. Before he and I worked together, he would always come in and ask me questions about the coffee we were serving that day, gently asking me questions about what flavors we were getting and just generally being excited about coffee and its potential to bring people together. He holds Danny Meyer and his book Setting The Table in the highest regard, and is genuinely the most creative and heartfelt person when it comes to customer service.”

Will Frith – WillFrith.com of Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

Will Frith (Photo by Huynh Nguyen Tan Phat)

Nominated by Elizabeth Chai

Will Frith is a career coffee professional working to “change the way the world sees Vietnamese coffee.” Frith has roots in the American Pacific Northwest, working for companies including Batdorf & Bronson and Modbar. Today he is based in Ho Chi Minh City, where his work includes training and education for the city’s booming coffee scene, the development of his own concept cafe project, and a wide-reaching green coffee initiative built around introduction arabica varieties to a region traditionally known for robusta. Sprudge has covered Frith’s work in Vietnam since 2013, and today his updating regularly at his own eponymous website.

Sara Frinak – Ally Coffee, based in Atlanta, GA

Sara Frinak (Photo by Elizabeth Chai)

Nominated by Diana Mnatsakanyan-Sapp

Sara Frinak is well-known to a generation of American coffee professionals as a tireless volunteer and supporter of coffee events, both regional in the American Southeast, and nationally through the Specialty Coffee Association’s USA competitions circuit. In addition, Frinak is an Accounts Manager with Ally Coffee, a green coffee trading company based in Greenville, SC. From the nominating essay by Sprudge Editorial Advisory Board member Diana Mnatsakanyan-Sapp:

Sara is someone who exemplifies kindness and support in the coffee industry. She never hesitates to help her coffee community, volunteering countless hours with the SCA and local organizations, spending her time and resources to empower young coffee professionals in the southeast and beyond. She is a community cheerleader, relentlessly positive and enthusiastic, treating the victories of others as her own.

Priscilla Fisher – Floozy Coffee of Newcastle, New South Wales

Priscilla Fisher

Priscilla Fisher (Photo courtesy Priscilla Fisher)

Nominated by Grant Gamble

Priscilla Fisher is the co-founder of Floozy Coffee, an Australian coffee roasting and retail company based in Newcastle, New South Wales. Fisher opened the brand in 2017 alongside co-founder Kristy Mujana.

Floozy is at the forefront of fusing specialty coffee culture with feminism and social enterprise. Proceeds from both retail and wholesale coffee sales at Floozy go to benefit The Rough Period, providing sanitary items to at-risk women in and around Sydney. Floozy’s coffee program highlights the work of emerging coffee producers worldwide, with a focus on women-owned coffee projects. Their coffee ships worldwide.

Laura Gonzalez – @StrongWomenOfCoffee of Vancouver, British Columbia

Laura Gonzalez (Photo by Claudia Cantu)

Nominated by Stacey Lynden

Laura Gonzalez is the founder of @StrongWomenOfCoffee an Instagram account documenting the work and achievements of female-identifying and non-binary coffee professionals around the world. Born in Guadalajara, today Gonzalez is based in Vancouver, where she works at Genius, an espresso equipment supply and tech service. Through this work, she has helped lead multiple tech training seminars and info sessions, affordably priced and focused on offering resources to women and marginalized members of the coffee community.

Kristina Jackson – Intelligentsia Coffee of Boston, MA 

Kristina Jackson

Kristina Jackson (Photo by Jon Santos)

Nominated by Rose Woodard, Rob Rodriguez, and Kat Melheim 

Kristina Jackson is an exemplary member and leader in the specialty coffee community. Her work is centered first and foremost on the city of Boston, where she is the founder of the Boston Intersectional Coffee Collective, but it reverberates worldwide by offering a radical example of inclusion. Her work provides a roadmap towards confronting marginalization for coffee professionals of all backgrounds and identities, and to ensuring that the next generation of coffee pros see a place for themselves in coffee culture.

Sprudge readers are familiar with Jackson’s work through our coverage of the Boston Intersectional Coffee Collective, and from Jackon’s Fall 2018 appearance on Michelle Johnson’s Black Coffee event panel in New York City. She is also an exceptional working barista at Intelligentsia Coffee’s Post Office Square location, a facet of her professional work captured vividly in this nominating essay (one of several Jackson received) from Rob Rodriguez:

“[Behind the bar], she often creates an experience and space where, despite how many people are in the shop, you feel as if you are her singular focus. This is reflected consistently in her exceptional coffee brewing skills. Each cup and shot regularly consistent and thoroughly enjoyable. While I could speak endlessly on her hospitality and coffee service skills, what sets Kristina apart from the rest is that her vision for an inclusive and equitable coffee community in Boston is strictly unmatched.”

Elle Jensen – Amethyst Coffee of Denver, Colorado

Elle Jensen (Photo by Charlie Burt)

Nominated by Kat Melheim

Elle Jensen is an entrepreneur, community organizer, and coffee professional based in Denver, Colorado. In 2015 Jensen opened Amethyst Coffee on Denver’s Capitol Hill; in 2018 the brand’s second location opened in the Berkeley neighborhood. In 2015 she launched the Cherry Roast, a landmark “platform and coffee competition to support and provide visibility for womxn/trans/GNC/gender queer coffee professionals.”

In her nominating essay, Coffee People Zine creator Kat Melheim writes “[Jensen] creates a welcoming and inclusive space for guests and baristas alike. She is an amazing, transparent, and honest business owner with the interests of the community at heart.

Sam Keck – Commonfolk Coffee of Mornington, Australia

Sam Keck

Sam Keck (Photo by 3000 Thieves)

Nominated by David Bishop

Sam Keck is an entrepreneur and founder of Commonfolk Coffee, located in the town of Mornington, on the Mornington Peninsula south of Melbourne. Keck has spun a successful roaster/retailer into a series of social enterprise efforts, including Zukuka Bora, a farmers initiative benefitting coffee growers in Uganda; and Home Ground, which is focused on providing training and job options in hospitality to unemployed and at-risk youth in Mornington. By fusing the high demand for quality coffee with organized social enterprise, Keck’s work shows us how coffee can do more than just taste good—it can also do very serious good for communities at home and around the world.

Haley Lytle – Cryptozoology of Denton, TX 

Haley Lytle (Photo by Zac Cadwalader)

Nominated by Kara Herman and Ben Lytle

Haley Lytle is a co-founder at Cryptozoology, a quality-focused multi-roaster coffee bar located in Denton, Texas. Lytle is one of several nominees featured for their exemplary expression of service and hospitality in a specialty coffee environment. A working barista and entrepreneur, Lytle’s work in coffee helps advance the culture in ways large and small. Here’s more from a nominating essay by Kara Herman:

“Haley specifically thrives on efficiency and makes it an art. She is able to communicate with customers while knocking out an order before the customer even walks away from the bar. (Almost every time!)… She has been incredibly encouraging and inspiring to me. I am only a few months into joining the coffee community so I am very glad to be learning from her… She makes sure that our team is efficient, happy, learning, and exhibiting the best customer experience possible. She has a gentle way of teaching and showing me how to do certain tasks better and explaining why it will make an overall difference in what we are doing. High-quality drinks and exceptional customer service are our goals and she makes sure it happens while having a lot of fun… She goes above and beyond but has no idea.”

Aubrey Mills – Dapper & Wise Roasters of Portland, OR

Aubrey Mills (Photo by Grahm Doughty)

Nominated by Tyler Geel

Aubrey Mills is the Director of Wholesale at Dapper & Wise, a coffee roasting company with locations in Beaverton and Portland, Oregon. In her role with the company, Mills has avowedly championed the disparity in cost of production across the specialty coffee chain. She’s made public education her goal, focused on educating the public for the need to pay more for quality coffee and address wage instability for coffee producers. These issues were addressed at a recent forum hosted by La Marzocco USA in Seattle, Washington, during a Dapper & Wise cafe residency.

Umeko Motoyoshi – UMESHISO.COM and related ventures, Oakland, CA

Umeko Motoyoshi

Umeko Motoyoshi (Photo by Evan Gilman)

Nominated by Kat Melheim

Umeko Motoyoshi is an entrepreneur, coffee professional, technologist, social media provacateur, whistleblower and advocate for the marginalized. They are the founder of Umeshiso.com, the VP of Technology at Sudden Coffee, and the creator of @wastingcoffee on Instagram, among other ventures. They are the Sprudgie Award winner for Outstanding Achievement in the Field of Excellence for 2018, and the founder of CHANGING STRUCTURES in collaboration with the #CoffeeToo Project. In 2018 Motoyoshi was a named whistleblower in the Four Barrel Coffee sexual harassment scandal and subsequent legal action.

TBCH that’s roughly half of what we could have listed here for accomplishments related to Umeko Motoyoshi, who exemplifies the spirit and intentionality of the Sprudge Twenty through their multi-faceted work across the specialty coffee industry. Read more in Sprudge co-founder Zachary Carlsen’s recent interview with them here.

Laetitia Mukandahiro – Kigali, Rwanda

Laetitia Mukandahiro (Photo courtesy Laetitia Mukandahiro)

Nominated by Chelsea Thoumsin

Laetitia Mukandahiro is an accomplished coffee professional born and raised in Rwanda. Originally from the village of Musasa, located near the famed Dukundekawa cooperative, Mukandahiro distinguished herself early in her career as an accomplished and capable professional cupper. She’s worked for the Rwanda Smallholder Specialty Coffee Company (RWASHOSCCO), for the washing station management firm KZ Noir, and today for the noted Rwandan coffee exporter Bufcoffee, where she serves as Quality Control and Sustainability Manager. Mukandahiro is a certified Q Grader and has served on multiple international Cup of Excellence judging panels. Her continuing work with BufCafe includes establishing a training center and affording ongoing opportunities for Rwandan youths interested in a career in coffee.

Kazuhiro Nagasawa – Nagasawa Coffee of Morioka City, Japan 

Kazuhiro Nagasawa (Photo courtesy Kazuhiro Nagasawa)

Nominated by Mami Sakamoto

Kazuhiro Nagasawa is an entrepreneur and coffee professional based in Morioka City, some 300 miles from the city of Tokyo on the northern tip of Honshu. He is the owner/operator of his own eponymous small town coffee brand, Nagasawa Coffee, founded in 2012.

Here’s more on why Nagaswa Coffee is special from Mimi Sakamoto’s nominating essay:

“Let me explain a little bit about my hometown, the city of Morioka and its relationship with coffee. Coffee is loved by all generations here, and many families have their favorite coffee roasters and cafes. But what they call “coffee” has traditionally meant a dark roasted, thick, strong tasting drink. When Nagasawa Coffee opened in 2012, their coffee selection had fruity, lighter or sometimes unique tastes in addition to “traditional” dark ones.

Mr. Nagasawa was not trying to follow “in-fashion” coffee then. His coffee choices are not swayed by trends. Instead, he is cultivating his own world of coffee, traveling from Africa to Taiwan to keep his knowledge current, and expressing everything he’s learned here for the locals. I think this is how a barista in a small town can contribute to change and influence the world of coffee.”

Chris Tellez – Show & Tell Coffee of Kitchener, Ontario

Chris Tellez (Photo courtesy Chris Tellez)

Nominated by Priscilla Fisher 

Chris Tellez is a coffee professional and entrepreneur based in Ontario, where he serves as a regional sales representative for Phil & Sebastian Coffee and owns and operates Show & Tell Coffee. A career professional, Tellez has been competing in the Canadian barista competition circuit for more than a decade. His work came to international attention in 2019 for a protest routine on the Canadian Barista Championship stage, calling out an official World Coffee Events rule disallowing the use of alternative milk. Tellez’ routine was timed to the launch of a petition formally requesting WCE reconsider the rule.

Freda Yuan – Origin Coffee Roasters of London, United Kingdom

Freda Yuan (Photo by Gary Handley)

Nominated by Cat O’Shea

Freda Yuan is an accomplished coffee professional based in London. She is the Head of Coffee at Origin Coffee Roasters; a two-time UK Cup Tasters Champion, placing 3rd in the world at the World Cup Tasters Championship in 2017; a licensed Q Grader and SCA educator in both English and Mandarin; and an MBA from Middlesex University. Yuan has worked many roles throughout her coffee career and has been a vocal champion for recovery and advocacy related to eating disorders.

The Sprudge Twenty is presented by Pacific Foods Barista Series. For more information on the Sprudge Twenty, visit sprudge.com/twenty.

Nomination schedule for the 2020 class will be announced in Fall 2019. Follow Sprudge for updates. 

The post The Inaugural Sprudge Twenty Class Of 2019 appeared first on Sprudge.

Source: Coffee News

A New Study Finds A Link Between Coffee And Lung Cancer

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Oh Science, why have you forsaken me? In what is generally a reliable green light to consume as much coffee as you damn well please, today’s science news has turned its back on us all. A new study lead by Vanderbilt University PhD student Jingjing Zhu finds that drinking two or more cups of coffee a day may come with an increased risk of lung cancer.

Before we go any further, let me just stop and say that no, it’s not because coffee drinkers are more likely to pair their cuppa with a cigarette; the study took that into account. And it’s not even because these bean teens are freebasing coffee, though I’d guess the study didn’t quite give that particular hypothesis its due. Now that we’ve eliminating the two most likely culprits we can move on.

According to Live Science, Zhu et al’s findings were presented at the annual conference for the American Association for Cancer Research on March 31st. For the meta-study, the “international group of researchers” led by Zhu analyzed data from 17 different studies with a sum total of 1.2 million participants in the United States and Asia who were tracked for an average of 8.6 years. In each of the studies, participants were asked if they smoked, if they consumed coffee or tea, and how much. Per Live Science, about half were non-smokers.

Over the course of the studies, a total of 20,500 participants that developed lung cancer. Cross-referencing those participants with their coffee and tea drinking habits, the meta-study found that coffee drinkers had a 41% higher chance of developing the disease, with tea also having a 37% higher risk.

And while these finding seem to point to caffeine—the most obvious commonality between coffee and tea—as the carcinogenic agent, the meta-study found that in fact decaf coffee was associated with a 15% higher risk than that of regular coffee.

But we coffee drinkers still have outs. As an observational study, Zhu et al’s findings don’t prove any causal relationship between coffee consumption and an increased risk in lung cancer. Additionally, due to the way to studies were performed, the reliability of their data may be in question; participants were only asked about their smoking and coffee/tea habits at the beginning of the surveys, leaving open the possibility of changes in habits over the course of the average 8.6 years.

Secondhand smoke may also be an untracked factor in the findings. Coffee drinkers, it would seem, spend more time at coffee shops, places where smokers are more likely to congregate (and depending on where and when these studies took place, smoking may have even been allowed inside these businesses). Because of this, it could be the case that the additional exposure to secondhand smoke may be the leading factor; one’s love of coffee merely led to this increased exposure.

But as with most of the coffee-based studies, more research needs to be done before any hard conclusions can be drawn. So don’t go changing your coffee habits or become some weird flat-earth science denier just yet. There’s still time for Science to get this error straightened out.

Zac Cadwalader is the managing editor at Sprudge Media Network and a staff writer based in Dallas. Read more Zac Cadwalader on Sprudge.

The post A New Study Finds A Link Between Coffee And Lung Cancer appeared first on Sprudge.

Source: Coffee News

The Sprudge Guide To Edinburgh, Scotland

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Coorie (ku:ri) is the Scottish art of living happy. It used to mean something akin to snuggle—coorie in, coorie down—but in the last couple of years it’s developed into a style of aesthetics and living. It’s not just about candles and coffee. Coorie is about taking comfort and energy from both the wild landscapes of Scotland and the cheerful interiors that inspire cozy togetherness. You might have experienced something like coorie if you’ve ever walked into your best friend’s living room or your favorite coffee shop and immediately felt welcomed and loved.

While traveling around Scotland last fall, I searched high and low for the best coffee I could find, the places that made us want to coorie down with loved ones, a book, and coffee. The local coffee haven is Edinburgh. Here, coffee shops sprout up like mushrooms after a good rain. In the center of the city, it’s unlikely you’ll walk a block without spotting at least one. In the last few years, the local scene has begun shifting more towards specialty coffee with a focus on top quality and good service. We’ve rounded up our top ten coorie shops to help you get around the city without getting caught in the rain.

This guide is meant to be used in conjunction with Edinburgh cafes previously featured on Sprudge.

edinburgh scotland coffee guide

Artisan Roast

Artisan Roast is a welcoming, homey spot that feels worlds away from the central tourists hubs of Edinburgh. Here the roasters care deeply about their coffee, and tucked among plants, art, and knick-knacks are colorful flavor wheels and descriptions of the current coffees they’re roasting. Bags of coffee are displayed prominently and the bar is visually open, inviting everyone into the space.

When I visited Artisan, customers from the neighborhood and tourists from all over were making themselves at home in the front tables by the picture window and their comfortable back living room-style sitting area. When you visit, look closely at your surroundings, because hidden among the usual coffee shop trappings and home-like decor is a collection of funky wall art, a gold-framed photo of Morgan Freeman who reminds everyone to hydrate, and a cheeky promise “from” JK Rowling to never write there.

Artisan Roast has multiple locations in Edinburgh. Visit their official website and follow them on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram.

edinburgh scotland coffee guide

Baba Budan

Baba Budan has the kind of bubbly atmosphere that comes from baristas who are having fun behind the bar. The space is cheery too: high ceilings, sleek wood, and skinny lights pair well with their coffee to brighten up even the darkest winter afternoon. Named for the 16th century Sufi saint who is said to have introduced coffee to India, Baba Budan is a continued celebration of the spread of that beverage. The community table is a good space to work, and the whole cafe is a great place to meet up with a friend. The baristas were brewing up a Salvadoran coffee from Girls Who Grind on drip, along with espresso from Workshop. Rotating roasters include Square Mile, The Barn, Coffee Collective, and Dark Arts Coffee. If you’re feeling a little jittery from caffeine already, they have a selection of food using seasonal ingredients. It’s all made in-house.

Baba Budan is located at Arch 12, 17 East Market Street, Edinburgh. Visit their official website and follow them on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram.

edinburgh scotland coffee guide

Black Medicine

If you’re trying to drink coffee in the cafe where JK Rowling first wrote Harry Potter, Black Medicine is the closest you’re going to get. It stands where Nicolson’s used to, which is where Rowling wrote most of Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone. (Later books were written at Elephant House, but despite claims to be “the birthplace” of Potter, they didn’t open until Philosopher’s Stone was almost published.) Today, Black Medicine is a bustling coffee shop serving up good brews, bagels, and high energy. The baristas are an upbeat and friendly group, even when there’s a chaotic line. Their menu of milk-based drinks is reliably good, and espresso is served with a ginger cookie to make your coffee break just that bit more exciting. The bohemian decor and excitable environment is conducive to any creative who finds people-watching inspiring, and you’ll find writers camped out with laptops everywhere.

If you care about the environment (and don’t you?), you’ll be happy to know Black Medicine has experimented with using steel straws for cold drinks, has completely banned drinking from takeaway coffee cups inside, and offers a 10% discount if you bring your own mug.

Black Medicine is located at 2 Nicolson St, Edinburgh. Visit their official website and follow them on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram.

edinburgh scotland coffee guide

Brew Lab Coffee

True to its name, Brew Lab Coffee has an underground bunker laboratory feel that makes it a favorite of students. The rooms are laid out like a rabbit’s warren and packed full of young millennials writing, studying, and talking. There’s more exposed brick than you can shake a fist at, and the decor is focused on the scientific, including a menu that visually mimics the element squares of the periodic table. The focus here is on coffee: equipment is top of the line and the baristas are clearly extremely knowledgeable about the drinks they’re serving. Brewed coffee itself is not a rarity in Edinburgh, but the pour-over bar in central view for everyone is. Service includes drinks brought to the table (if you’ve found one) and friendly baristas. V60s are brewed into carafes and served on trays; flat whites show up with perfectly symmetrical rosettas.

Though it’s one of Edinburgh’s more spacious specialty cafes, popularity and proximity to the University of Edinburgh means finding a place to sit can be a challenge. If you can, try to snag one of the arm chairs at the back and settle in. When you’re done with caffeine for the day, Brew Lab also serves beer, wine, and cocktails.

Brew Lab Coffee is located at 6-8 S College St, Edinburgh. Visit their official website and follow them on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram.

edinburgh scotland coffee guide

Cairngorm Coffee

Behind the bar in Cairngorm read the words “Coffee and grilled cheese.” Generous sandwiches are constructed by the staff, and the coziness of this childhood favorite meal perfectly matches the coziness of Cairngorm. The ceiling is hung with burlap coffee sacks, and the natural wood and forest color palette evokes the eastern Highlands mountain range it’s named for. A snowboard, a skateboard, and skis hang on the walls to bring mountain adventure inside, or you can pick up an AeroPress and bag of this micro-roaster’s coffee to take on your next outdoor escape. When I dropped by, Cairngorm’s baristas were brewing up an excellent selection of Five Elephant coffee and their own Central American selection. They served up what was, hands down, the best flat white I had in Edinburgh. Attention to service is in everything Cairngorm does: tea was served with a timer to ensure it wasn’t over-steeped, newspapers were available for reading, and tablets set into bar seating were available to browse their website.

Find Cairngorm by descending some stairs from the main level of Frederick Street. The small patio outside is aces when the weather is great, or cozy up inside.

Cairngorm Coffee has multiple locations in Edinburgh. Visit their official website and follow them on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram.

edinburgh scotland coffee guide

Castello Coffee

Just a block off of the Princes Street Gardens and the main tram line, Castello Coffee waits to supply you with coffee and food to fuel up. The space is clean and bright, and framed art features prominently on the walls. Clearly named for Edinburgh Castle nearby, this shop serves up an Americano made with Allpress Espresso that’s fit for a monarch and delicious hot chocolates for everyone else. The breakfast and lunch soup options are great, as well. Friendly baristas are behind the bar and the bustling energy patrons bring in and out of the shop is the perfect pick-me-up to accompany the coffee when you need one.

If you’re out playing tourist or shopping nearby, Castello is a convenient and reliably good shop to drop in on. Grab a seat at the counter facing the window to watch people stream by in this busy neighborhood or enjoy their wide patio seating under umbrellas to protect you from the elements.

Castello Coffee has multiple locations in Edinburgh. Follow them on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram.

edinburgh scotland coffee guide

Cult Espresso

Tucked away on a small road close to the University of Edinburgh is wee gem Cult Espresso. This long narrow shop has a sapphire blue facade that makes it stand brightly out from the rest of the store fronts on the street, and the front door promises coffee, brunch, and good times—indeed, the service is amazing and the energy in the shop is cheerful and welcoming. When I visited I had a delicious long black and a good long chat with the baristas about the coffee scenes in the US and Scotland, what makes Cult special, and how excited they were about the coffee they were serving that day. As a group of self-proclaimed “coffee nerds,” Cult is constantly curating seasonal single-origin coffees from the UK and Europe, and they’re truly dedicated to making sure each cup is delicious.

Cult Espresso may not be an actual cult, but I could come to be (almost) as dedicated to it as a real one. Drop by the shop for their ritual brunch and coffee combo, and don’t forget to snag some of their branded swag on the way out.

Cult Espresso is located at 104 Buccleuch St, Edinburgh. Visit their official website and follow them on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram.

edinburgh scotland coffee guide

Fortitude Coffee

More than any other, Fortitude Coffee feels like a barista’s coffee shop. It retains the appearance of a converted rowhouse and is a peaceful background for great coffee, friendly baristas, and a community vibe. I sat by the windows and enjoyed a juicy pour-over roasted by Fortitude and perused the simple food menu. When I visited, they were quick to talk up the other coffee shops on the Disloyal 7 card, as well as recommend other must-try places around Edinburgh. They host the occasional cupping with their full lineup of coffees, and recently co-hosted a Meet the Roaster event with Edinburgh Coffee Society, so if you’re just visiting, check with the baristas to see if there’s an event coming up. Though still a relatively young scene, Fortitude is proof of how great a city’s coffee network becomes when everyone in it cares about the same main goals: delicious beverages and open community.

On a busy day, Fortitude is the perfect tranquil spot to relax, chat about coffee, and grab a bite to eat. Their full wall of retail coffee and coffee equipment is a great source for whatever your coffee-loving heart needs.

Fortitude Coffee is located at 3C York Pl, Edinburgh. Visit their official website and follow them on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram.

edinburgh scotland coffee guide

Lowdown

Literally low—down a flight of stairs—Lowdown is a minimalist shop. It’s a peaceful place to get away from the bustle of the main road, and has an airy feel to the decor and art. If you’re looking for a quieter place than Black Medicine to get work done, Lowdown is going to be your best bet for a distraction-free environment—the baristas are focused on careful, precise brewing. The coffee served and sold at Lowdown comes from all over Europe, including the delicious balanced shot of Ethiopian coffee from Colonna that was on drank when I stopped by. Similar to Artisan, Lowdown’s espresso bar is open and visible to guests, which invites an easy engagement that the baristas welcome.

The pastry case was full of beautiful pastries, including several cake options that are always the perfect pairing with any coffee for a good mid-morning snack. Bring a friend to take a break from shopping or sightseeing, or hunker down here with a good book. Lowdown is the perfect place to pass an afternoon with a cup of coffee.

Lowdown is located at 40 George St, Edinburgh. Follow them on Twitter and Instagram.

edinburgh scotland coffee guide

Machina

The coffee aesthetic is strong with this one. Above the bar hangs a black metal industrial light fixture from which a portafilter, a pitcher, and other various coffee implements hang from to float over the space. The walls are clean and white, and the tables are modernist sturdy wood and black metal. In Machina, several shelves are dedicated to different retail options; if you’re looking for equipment Machina seems to have the largest selection in Edinburgh. Located just up the street from Filament, this micro-roaster’s shop is another warm and relaxing space to escape rush hour or a quick rain shower.

Drop by early to enjoy the food menu options and sign up for their coffee subscription service while you’re there. Try to snag the window seat—not only is it super comfortable, it’s the perfect setting for your next Instagram photo with coffee.

Machina has multiple locations in Edinburgh. Visit their official website and follow them on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram.

Valorie Clark (@TheValorieClark) is a freelance journalist based in Los Angeles. Read more Valorie Clark on Sprudge.

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Source: Coffee News

Does Dark Roast Coffee Really Have More Caffeine?

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When it comes to coffee, there’s something everyone’s talking about and nobody is talking about: caffeine. For people who drink and enjoy coffee, caffeine is on the mind and a wonderful tasting cup is a big bonus. For the folx who work in the coffee industry, we tend to want to think we’re in the deliciousness business and a part of a beautiful value chain, not that we’re administering legal drugs in liquid form. Of course, great coffee can be both things, but as is so often true about the common and ubiquitous, very little is known about the science of caffeine consumption, and there are many misconceptions around it.

Juliet Han has been pulling double-duty as the head roaster at Blue Bottle while also continuing her studies at Peralta Colleges in Oakland with a focus on science, and naturally she researches coffee whenever she can. In her just-published research paper Correlation Between Caffeine and Roast Levels Using HPLC she took on the question, “Does dark roast have more caffeine than light roast?” This is one of the most common misconceptions around coffee, and while it is something that’s been studied in the past, Han’s 15 years of varied industry experience give her a practical lens to see the question through.

Han started by considering the question and pulling it apart: Does dark roast have more caffeine than light roast? As with most questions about coffee, it depends. Even if you assume the brewing is performed consistently, when you say “more caffeine,” you’re talking about more… in what? In the cup? In the beans? In the grounds? How are you measuring the coffee? Each answer yields a different approach to the question, different scientific variables, and ultimately, different conclusions.

In her research lab, among the various tools and instruments, Han had access to an HPLC (high pressure liquid chromatography) machine, which is a common scientific tool that takes a sample and analyses it for what components are in there and in what quantities. The details of her methodology and data are in the research paper, but let’s summarize what she learned and why it matters, categorized by how we might frame the caffeine/roast question.

By the bean

One way to think about this question is: Do caffeine levels change inside the beans during roasting? On this, the science is clear: caffeine is very stable through the roasting process. You’d have to roast it past turning it into charcoal before caffeine would chemically change, beyond even the darkest of dark roasts you could find. Point is, even though the individual beans go through physical and chemical changes while it’s roasted, the amount of caffeine a bean starts with is generally the amount it ends up with. If you’re talking about individual beans, the caffeine level is the same whether it is light or dark roasted.

Of course, while this may be interesting as a bit of trivia, it’s not that relevant to our day to day coffee lives, unless you’re a coffeebeanophage, which means “person who eats whole bean coffee” and is also a word I just made up.

By the cup and weighing the grounds

Han wanted to take the variables of brewing out of the picture, so she brewed the coffee by “decoction,” which means brewing coffee by actually boiling the coffee in water. She brewed the living hell outta the coffee, extracting pretty much all the coffee that’s soluble. Boiling it for 15 minutes (as she did) is a lot, and the coffee surely tasted gross and bitter.

Coffee nerds like to weigh the coffee grounds we brew. Mass is a constant, and scoops or tablespoons give you a variable that’s imprecise and inaccurate. (Sorry, scoop lovers.) Different coffees can have very different physical characteristics, so it’s a bit misguided to think that there’s a magic brewing recipe that works all the time.

What Juliet found was that when she weighed the coffee grounds and based her calculations on that, the darker roast did in fact yield more caffeine than the lighter roast.

By the cup and by the scoop

But what if you just can’t put down that spoon or scoop? Not everyone has or wants a scale, and however imprecise scoops and spoons may be, it’s still the most common way most home coffee brewers measure their grounds. Measuring this way introduces the density of the coffee grounds into the calculations, and Han also did the calculations to see what the results were if someone used tablespoons or scoops.

Turns out that even when using volume to measure the coffee, the darker roasts still resulted in more caffeine than lighter roast.

What does this mean? 

I’ve gotta tell you, I love Han’s research paper. There’s a lot to love about it, but what I love most is that it inspires so many more questions and possibilities for future research.

According to this research, dark roast does in fact yield more caffeine than light roast. This is consistently what Han found across experiments, and it makes sense, though not for the reasons one might think. A darker roasted coffee is less dense, so by the bean, it has lower mass than a light roasted coffee. All other things being equal, if you grind and weigh out a certain number of grams of coffee, there are more beans involved when using dark roast. It’s no different than if we ate a pound of fresh grapes versus a pound of dried raisins—far more sugar is consumed in the dried, condensed raisin equation.

So it’s not necessarily that “dark roast has more caffeine”—caffeine is stable across roasts—but rather, dark roast is less dense. Since the caffeine is so stable, the difference mostly boils down to density.

What I think it’s interesting to note is that when you look at Han’s data, the caffeine difference between the lightest and darkest coffees was around 9% when you measured by the scoop, but about 32% when she measured by weight. That’s a big margin! While it’s the density difference between the dark and light roast coffee that gives us the difference in caffeine content, the fact that a scoop of dark roast has less mass than a scoop of light roast actually reduces the net caffeine difference in the scoops-and-spoons scenario. So while darker roast does have more caffeine, that difference is more pronounced when you measure by weight than if you’re scooper.

32% is a fairly meaningful difference. It means that 16 ounces of Han’s light roast brew would have about as much caffeine as 12 ounces of the dark roast. But when you’re thinking about how this applies to your coffee consumption, keep in mind that Juliet Han is a scientist professionally controlling her variables. Once you leave the lab and get out into the world of coffeeshops and home coffeemakers (not to mention different coffees and roasters and brewing waters and brewing variables), you’re faced with the unfathomable number of factors that affect caffeine content beyond just roast level.

All in all, it appears that dark roasted coffee has more caffeine, but not for the reasons you think. That is a great bit of trivia to pull out the next time somebody brings this up at a party. “You know, dark roasted coffee has more caffeine, but not for the reasons you think!

I can’t wait to see what other research Han and other coffee-knowledgable scientists come up with next. Go science!

Read the full academic paper from Juliet Han via Medium. 

Nicholas Cho (@nickcho) is a coffee professional based in San Francisco. This is Nicholas Cho’s first feature for Sprudge Media Network. 

Top image © Photosiber/Adobe Stock

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Source: Coffee News

Toby’s Estate Brooklyn Is Now Partners Coffee

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Toby’s Estate Brooklyn is dead! Long live Partners Coffee! In a Sprudge exclusive first look, Toby’s Estate, the Brooklyn-based roastery and its five accompanying cafes, have announced a complete rebrand. Starting tomorrow, April 6th, all Toby’s Estate New York roasters and cafes will be known as Partners Coffee.

In a statement sent to Sprudge, the rebrand is the last piece in a realignment for owners Adam Boyd and Amber Jacobsen, who see themselves and their company as soundly New York. Opened originally in 2012, Boyd and Jacobsen state that “the name Toby’s Estate originated from an Australian heritage that the team no longer identifies with, and the current muted, minimalist aesthetic no longer resonates with their dynamic, warm and unfussy brand ethos.” Thus, they decided to rebrand to Partners Coffee, to “better reflect the company’s Brooklyn roots and underscore their unwavering commitment to sourcing and roasting quality coffee.”

Toby’s Estate Brooklyn has always operated independently of the larger Australian parent company, and this rebrand solidifies the distinction. According to the statement, the new name allows the company to scale and operate fully independent cafes, both domestically and internationally.

“After months of preparation, we are delighted to introduce our new name and brand identity, Partners Coffee,” say Jacobsen and Boyd tell Sprudge. “We are only as great as the sum of our partners, and we are excited to continue evolving and growing with a new look, feel and name that fully embodies who we are and what we stand for.”

For their new look, Boyd and Jacobsen worked with creative agency Love & War to an aesthetic that “evoke[s] heritage coffee brands and the classic energy, optimism and simplicity of mid-century New York coffee counters, but in a bold, colorful way that feels fresh and contemporary.” With the opportunity afforded by a complete refresh, Partners decided to team up with Savor Brands, “a bag producer that uses waste-free manufacturing and offers zero-waste compost solutions.” The used bags that are collected will be “shredded, pelletized and made into materials such as garbage bins and watering cans, and 100% of the collected bags are recycled- never landfilled or incinerated.”

The rebrand isn’t the end of the Partners nee Toby’s Estate Brooklyn evolution, just the next step, though it is perhaps the most visible one. Whereas the name Toby’s might have underscored who the owners and company were in 2012, the new moniker is a better representation of who they are in 2019. May each one of us continue to bloom and blossom and find our own paths here in the present day, and be called by the name that speaks our truth.

Zac Cadwalader is the managing editor at Sprudge Media Network and a staff writer based in Dallas. Read more Zac Cadwalader on Sprudge.

All images via Partners Coffee

Disclosure: Partners Coffee/Toby’s Estate is an advertising partner with the Sprudge Media Network.

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Source: Coffee News

A Fond Farewell To Cherry Roast

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Some sad news coming out of Denver. Cherry Roast, the “platform and coffee competition to support and provide visibility for womxn/trans/GNC/gender queer coffee professionals” will shutter after four seasons. Founder and Amethyst Coffee owner Elle Jensen made the announcement via social media, published originally via the Coffee People Zine’s Instagram and reprinted below in full.

In it, Jensen recounts the early days of Cherry Roast, which launched in 2015 as a competition for “female baristas.” The competition soon expanded to prioritize inclusivity for trans, gender non-conforming, and gender queer individuals. Across four seasons Cherry Roast saw a lot of growth in both who it served and how it was able to serve them: 2018 champion Simone Rodriguez, for instance, will be attending the World Barista Championship in Boston next week as part of the winner’s bounty.

Ultimately, 2018 would be the last chapter in the Cherry Roast story, and for Jensen, the timing was right. The burden of running an organization can often be overwhelming, especially when you are busy opening new cafes. And instead of handing off the reins to someone else, Jensen opted to put an end to the competition, while questioning the nature and necessity of competition within coffee itself.

Cherry Roast was part of a wave of local, DIY, community-driven coffee competitions for people who, for a variety of reasons (often relating back to inclusivity), didn’t have the interest or resources to in compete on a national level. We covered Cherry Roast frequently over the last four years on Sprudge, and watched as it became a bellwether for what coffee events can be and mean today: diverse, inclusive, community-minded, and above all else, fun.

The full statement from Elle Jensen is reprinted below.

Dear Friends of Cherry Roast-

This is not an easy letter to write, and I will try to fit all of the pertinent information into the first short paragraphs so you need not read further if you don’t care to. The short of it is that Cherry Roast has seen its last year. In the coming paragraphs I will explain my position, give my reasons, say it’s not your fault (robyn, anyone?), and try to leave the jokes aside, but #copingmechanisms, amirite?

Yes, you read that correctly. The last Cherry Roast is in our past, and will not be continued into the future. I am beyond thankful to everyone who has supported this event in it’s 4 years, and I think that for a moment we did a lot of good in our community. I think Cherry Roast did what it was meant to do, and now I think it’s time to let it go. That’s the gist of it, so please feel free to walk away now, before I get emotional.Cherry Roast will always hold the most special of places in my heart. From that first year of rickety tables set up in a space that was too small to hold everyone who came out to support, to this past year figuring out a way (with so, so much help) to send our champion to Boston for WBC. That’s a pretty fucking cool glow-up in 4 years. However, it has not been 4 years of triumphs. It has been 4 years of sleepless nights, giant missteps, and harmful mistakes on my part. I had no idea what Cherry Roast was going to become when I started it, I didn’t realize how big the hole was that it filled, and I didn’t realize it would then create other holes in our community. To best organize this, I’m going to make a list of reasons why Cherry Roast was a great stepping stone, and it is now time for us to step to the next one.

1. I started Cherry Roast as a competition for ‘female baristas’ in 2015, the same year I opened Amethyst Coffee. I now cringe at the word ‘female’ when trying to reference a specific group of people, but you can’t hide from the past. Due to my positions of privilege, I didn’t understand why this verbiage was harmful and why creating a competition like this also created an othering of already othered baristas. I am so sorry for the hurt that choice caused. I am sorry that my responses were not always graceful. I am thankful to a community who held me accountable, because that in itself is a lot of work. Cherry Roast was not only a lot of work for me, but also a lot of work for our community in a way that I did not foresee. In 2017 we made Cherry Roast more inclusive. We worked to make sure that our language was inclusive and that this wasn’t just a competition geared toward cis white women baristas. We stumbled over our inclusive language more than once. White cis men sent me angry emails more than once. Policing gender identity and trying to create a box in which certain people could fit became unhealthy and caused more hurt. I think in some ways this shows that our community is growing and getting better. I think more of us understand how our privilege presents when interacting with our community, and how sometimes the best thing we can do is just be quiet and let the voices who should be heard, be heard. I think Cherry Roast played a part in that, and that is part of the good that came of it. However, like I said, I think that we can grow beyond this, and that we have grown out of Cherry Roast.

2. We don’t need another competition. We don’t need another reason to create animosity, and even though Cherry Roast has never felt that way, in 2018 the disappointment I felt was palpable and I don’t think that serves us. I’d like to see us create things together; build things together. Competition is born from toxic ideas as it is, and we don’t need it in this context.

3. I always wanted Cherry Roast to be a come-as-you-are and see what happens sort of thing, but the community wants something else. The community wants education, spaces to taste coffee without fear of judgement, and tangible professional development. Those are all incredible things to want, but that was not the space that I intended to create. When an organization ceases to serve the people it set out to serve, then what is it doing? Cherry Roast started to lose it’s identity as an entity, which, again, I think is good. I think it shows growth as a collective group, and also speaks to what the community needs. I’m hoping in the coming months to address these needs, so we’ll see what happens!

4. ‘If you’re tired of doing it, why not just pass it off to someone else?’ I thought long and hard about this. There are leaders in our community who would love to step up, but I don’t think that’s the point. I don’t think some regeneration of Cherry Roast is what we need, I think it just needs to be let go. I think it should live in it’s moment in time as a reminder of growth and change. Not preserved in a strange way, just there in it’s own moment in time.

5. To state the obvious, I am also tired. Running a platform like this is more than I anticipated in so many ways, and though I am thankful for the personal and professional growth, I need to do more of this work on my own time and from my own emotional bank. I’ve unknowingly asked a LOT of the marginalized people in my community, and it’s not fair. I’ve done my best, and I now better understand what we actually need. What I can promise you from myself moving forward is more work toward inclusive legislative change, more work toward holding other business owners accountable and making sure our spaces are actually safe and not just advertised as safe, more work done to highlight marginalized voices in our communities, and more work towards cafe transparencies.

As I close, I have one thing to ask of you. I’ve spoken to many people who run platforms focused on uplifting marginalized voices and bringing to light the harmful aspects of our community. I’ve asked what they do to take care of themselves and a lot of them say ‘I don’t know… if you think of anything please let me know’. These people run these platforms because they care. They are people, they are not perfect. I see baristas playing call-out wars and, honestly, it sucks. It’s gross. Yes, it is SUPER important to hold people accountable, but you NEED to check in with yourself and say ‘am I holding this person accountable for their own growth and the good of my community, or am I just trying to be the first person to call them out?’. I’d like to see more privileged people reaching out with offers of help for these platforms, rather than call-outs. This will be more appreciated than you probably know.

This news will come as a surprise to many of you. There are those of you who will be sad, angry, confused, and I hope you know that I am always available to talk. Ultimately, I had to make this decision on my own. I’m sorry that strips some of you of a voice in this, but I really do believe this is for the best. I have so much love for everyone who has ever supported and been a part of Cherry Roast. You are seen, loved, and valued, and I promise to continue working hard for you.

cheers,

elle

Zac Cadwalader is the managing editor at Sprudge Media Network and a staff writer based in Dallas. Read more Zac Cadwalader on Sprudge.

Top image via Cherry Roast

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Source: Coffee News

Passion And Sincerity At Istanbul’s Kimma Coffee Roasters

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kimma coffee roasters instanbul turkey

kimma coffee roasters instanbul turkey

It’s an unseasonably warm winter day in Istanbul when I get off the metro at the Sanayi Mahallesi station. Sanayi Mahallesi means “industrial neighborhood” in Turkish, a name whose accuracy makes up for what it might lack in creativity. The district is home to a somewhat grungy assortment of garages and warehouses, with the occasional office park that’s crept in from the neighboring financial district in search of lower rents.

I follow a zig-zagging street downhill—one is always either walking uphill or downhill in Istanbul—past the Kağıthane State Hospital, before spotting a triangle-shaped logo in front of an otherwise unmarked storefront. I ring the bell and am soon greeted by one of the best coffee brewers in the world, Aslı Yaman, who welcomes me into Kimma Coffee Roasters’ new roastery and training lab.

Aslı Yaman is tall with cropped hair. She speaks English—and Turkish—in a distinctive soprano with a certain musical quality. She’s upbeat and cheerful, despite being tired from a busy few days in Madrid—her first board meeting as a trustee of the Specialty Coffee Association.

kimma coffee roasters instanbul turkey

Aslı Yaman

Ushering me into Kimma’s training lab, Yaman offers to brew me a coffee, recommending a natural process Costa Rica. She asks my preferred brew method, but I opt to have Yaman choose. She selects a Chemex, the method she used to earn third place in the 2014 World Brewers Cup in Rimini.

As Yaman carefully folds a Chemex filter origami-style, making four distinct triangles to evenly distribute the thicker parts of the filter, we chat about the new space.

Although Kimma Coffee Roasters is about to turn three, it’s the first private space for the wholesale coffee roaster. In addition to being home to their coffee roasting operations, Kimma’s headquarters hosts a steady stream of courses in the Specialty Coffee Association’s Coffee Skills program. Yaman served as the education coordinator for the SCA’s Turkey chapter before being elected to the SCA board of directors. The space has barely been open for a month, but it’s already welcomed a carousel of aspiring baristas.

We sit down with our coffee at the conference table and are soon joined by Yaman’s business partner, Hanife Özyurt, who begins to tell me the story of their company.

“We’re very close friends, like sisters,” says Özyurt. The relationship, which precedes and transcends their coffee careers, provided the inspiration for Kimma’s name, which they discovered on a road trip from Istanbul to Ankara, Turkey’s capital.

“While Aslı drove I looked up “sisters” in different languages,” says Özyurt. They thought the Finnish word “Kimma” had a nice ring to it.

“We asked our Finnish friends, and they liked it,” says Yaman.

kimma coffee roasters instanbul turkey

Özyurt and Yaman

In addition to being short and memorable, the name projects a strong, feminine brand in a male-dominated coffee industry. Although it’s traditionally women who make coffee in the home in Turkey, the business side of things, whether importing or roasting, remains a man’s world. But Yaman and Özyurt aren’t afraid of the challenge.

“We’re not just brewing coffee, we’re trading. And the business side of things is really tricky,” says Yaman. “Sometimes they don’t want to do a project with a woman.”

Despite the obstacles, Özyurt and Yaman retain a positive outlook.

“It’s about professionalism. They see our passion and sincerity,” says Yaman. “We don’t believe in boundaries or borders. “

But beyond passion, Yaman and Özyurt both have serious business chops. Yaman earned an MBA at Istanbul’s Bilgi University, with her dissertation focusing on Starbucks expansion in the Turkish market. Her research led her to a job at Istanbul’s John’s Coffee before taking a position at Soyuz Coffee in Kaliningrad, Russia, where she worked for five years.

kimma coffee roasters instanbul turkey

Özyurt followed a more conventional career path in business.

“I was in a corporate life. I was a communication manager for a big company, but I was not happy,” says Özyurt.

During her international business trips, she would often visit coffee shops that Yaman would recommend. During a trip to San Francisco, one shot of espresso particularly stood out. “I said, ‘If this is a coffee, what are we drinking?’” says Özyurt. “I told my husband, ‘I’ll leave my corporate life and start a coffee business.’”

Özyurt’s growing interest in coffee coincided with Yaman’s desire to move home, a decision more personal than professional.

“I came back to Turkey because I really missed my family and friends,” says Yaman.

Yaman realized she could take her expertise and experience and use it to help guide the nascent Turkish coffee community. When she had left Turkey in 2010, Istanbul’s specialty coffee scene was practically nonexistent, but by 2015 the city was on its way to becoming one of the fastest growing markets in Europe.

“I wanted to show how we could succeed. I wanted to share all of this knowledge with the community here,” says Yaman. Her experience working for a large roaster, going to origin, and excelling on the world competition stage made Yaman a valuable commodity in Istanbul. As soon as she moved back she took on a variety of consulting jobs.

“I had a network I could bring to my country,” says Yaman. That network includes current World Barista Champion Agnieszka Rojewska, who will be leading SCA coffee skills programs in the facility.

kimma coffee roasters instanbul turkey

kimma coffee roasters instanbul turkey

For Kimma’s first two years, they rented time in Delfiano Coffee’s roastery. But as Kimma grew, Özyurt and Yaman knew they needed their own space. And a new partnership with local chain Cup of Joy made that possible. The founders of Cup of Joy made an investment in Kimma, which in turn roasts the coffee for Cup of Joy’s three Istanbul locations. Cup of Joy is also a woman-owned business, and by all accounts a pioneer in specialty coffee retail in Istanbul.

Özyurt and Yaman have big plans for the space. In addition to a 10-kilo Probat coffee roaster, and designated packaging area, the lab space is home to three espresso machines which allow them to maximize hands-on time in training sessions. A sponsorship from Turkish milk-giant Sek is allowing them to provide free courses to a wide variety of baristas, many at conventional cafes, who otherwise wouldn’t be able to afford training. Their goal is to train 1,000 baristas in 2019. This is on top of pro bono projects in Ethiopia and Rwanda, focusing on women producers. The work in East Africa is close to the heart of both Özyurt and Yaman.

“We’re going to farms,” says Özyurt, “We’re trying to support the farmers.”

“We want to give back,” says Yaman.

In all, it’s an impressive work schedule, especially in an emerging market like Turkey. But Özyurt downplays their accomplishments.

“We’re not saving the world,” she says. “We’re just making coffee.”

Kimma Coffee Roasters is located at Sanayi Mh., Işın Sokağı No:3/A, 34415 Kağıthane/İstanbul. Visit their official website and follow them Facebook and Instagram.

Michael Butterworth is the publisher of Pilgrimaged, based in Louisville, Kentucky. Read more Michael Butterworth for Sprudge.

The post Passion And Sincerity At Istanbul’s Kimma Coffee Roasters appeared first on Sprudge.

Source: Coffee News

Thinking About Coffee Can Make You More Alert

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The effects of coffee and caffeine are powerful ones. So powerful in fact, that you don’t even have to consume any in order to feel the buzz. According to a new study, just thinking about coffee can give you a mental boost.

According to Newsmax, the research was done by University of Toronto duo Sam Maglio and Eugene Chan, an associate professor of management and a Ph.D. recipient, respectively. Instead of studying how caffeine affects the body directly, Maglio and Chan wanted to see coffee-related cues to see if they created the same sort of arousal as the consumption does. “Coffee is one of the most popular beverages and a lot is known about its physical effects,” Maglio states. “Much less is known about its psychological meaning—in other words, how even seeing reminders of it can influence how we think.”

To reach their conclusion, Maglio and Chan took participants from “Western and Eastern” cultures and subjected them to coffee- and tea-related cues. They found that those “exposed to coffee-related cues perceived time as shorter and thought in more concrete, precise terms.” But the level of the effect wasn’t equal across the board; subjects from Eastern cultures didn’t experience the same level of effect, “probably because they are not coffee-dominated cultures,” per Maglio.

The result is what Maglio refers to as “priming,” a sort of Pavlovian response to cues that mimics the effects those cues represent. Essentially, you drink enough coffee and you start to associate it with alertness, so when you are given a coffee cue, the brain is already perking up. The difference in the effect between majority coffee drinking and non-majority coffee drinking cultures lends credence to this being a learned behavior.

This research is good news for those who forgot to grab a bag of coffee yesterday and are forced to start the day off dry. Don’t worry your foggy little head, my darlings. Just go hold onto a mug, maybe smell some coffee grounds in the trash can, and repeat to yourself, “coffee.” You should be wide awake and buzzing in no time.

Zac Cadwalader is the managing editor at Sprudge Media Network and a staff writer based in Dallas. Read more Zac Cadwalader on Sprudge.

Top image via Phys.org

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Source: Coffee News